Ode to Miriam Haskell

I don't make very many short necklaces because I think they tend to be more formal, but I think this one could be dressed up or down. I used a 14k white gold shell cameo with white beads from an old Miriam Haskell necklace and seed beads that I extracted from a 1940's vintage purse. This necklace sells for $355. Please email me at KellyEFielding@gmail.com to inquire about purchasing any of my work.

I love this necklace because it has so much texture and variation. I took apart two old vintage necklaces for the beaded strands and the rest is actually new chain. I like mixing old materials with new ones because I think it gives my pieces a modern twist.

The history of gold dates back to the Chalcolithic period, 4th millennium BC. Records show its use by ancient civilizations such as the Egyptians, Romans, and Mali of Africa. The Aztecs even believed it was a direct product of God. Gold is considered to be the most desirable among all other precious metals, which in turn, resulted in its use as the standard for many currencies; hence, "the gold standard."

In terms of American history, the discovery of gold only dates back to the 19th century. The first records of it in the United States date to 1803, where it was found at Reed Gold Mine, North Carolina. It is often thought to have been discovered in California, but that did not take place until almost 50 years later. When traces of it were eventually found at Sutter's Mill, a massive migration ensued, now known as "Manifest Destiny." Ultimately this migration resulted in the colonization of America's west coast.

"On January 24, 1848, gold was discovered in California. As the eyes of the world turned toward Sutter's Mill, people headed in that direction. They went by wagon, by horse, and by foot, seeking their fortune. This migration led to new towns all across the country. California's population was increased 2,500 percent in one year

As a result of this migration, railroads were expanding. IN 1840, there were 3,000 miles of track; by 1860, the total had grown to 30,000. Railroads were definitely on the move, bringing economic success along with them." (Bell 13).

Gold has long been used to indicate status and wealth. Because it is both malleable and pleasing to the eye, it is generally alloyed with other base metals in jewelry. By altering the fundamental properties of gold, jewelry designers and manufacturers have more control over things like melting point, ductility, and even color.

In this particular necklace I used 18k gold plated chain and sterling silver.

Price: $438. Please contact me at kellyefielding@gmail.com to inquire about purchasing any of my work.

Bell, C. Jeanne, G.G., ed. Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry. 7th edition. Iola, WI: Krause Publications, 2008.

Silver Chain and Crystal Necklace

This necklace comprises two strands of silver crystals from the 1940s and five strands of vintage silver chain. It is truly a statement piece. I love mixing different materials together because I love the textured effect. In this particular necklace I used five different styles of silver chain to achieve the look I was going for.
Silver has long history, dating back to antiquity. It was used by the ancient Egyptians to make jewelry because they considered it the next best metal to gold. They used the symbols to identify each metal; A perfect circle for gold, and a semi-circle for silver. Historians have also suggested that his symbol might be a direct reference to the shine of the moon.
The ancient Romans also had many uses for silver. They used it to pay debts, create religious relics, and make jewelry. There is evidence that the process to separate silver from lead dates as early as 5000 BCE. It’s malleability and durability made it perfect for creating wearable works of art.
Silver was first mined during the Bronze Age to create jewelry. It was easy to find throughout Europe, but the process of mining it was incredibly dangerous and toxic. Miners commonly died from lead poisoning, so they began using slaves instead. Silver mines close to Athens were found around 500 BCE, and proved profitable enough for Athens to build its first navy.
In the years of WWII, the jewelry industry suffered a significant blow due to restrictions that limited the amount of imported silver in the United States. There were severe shortages, so manufacturers and retailers could not re-stock their silver inventory. The September 5, 1942 Business Week reported:

“Sales are high level, but present bread-and-butter stock can’t be replenished. The most serious shortage is metal. The Supply of silver plate and of inexpensive jewelry made from base metals is now strictly limited to inventories that manufacturers and retailers have on hand. There will be no more when these are exhausted. Sterling silver has been widely used to replace the baser and scarcer metals.”

Other shortages included cultured pearls from Japan and the Dutch East Indies, and high-quality imitation stones. Despite these limitations, costume jewelry producers continued to experience high sales because people could not buy cars and home appliances, so they spent their money on jewelry instead. In 1944, order L-45 was rescinded, and restrictions on gold and platinum were lifted. Jewelers were ecstatic, and the federal excise tax on jewelry was raised from 10 to 20 percent in hope of stimulating jewelry sales.

This necklace sells for $375. Please email me to inquire about purchasing any of my work at KellyEFielding@gmail.com

Reference Sources:

A Source for Silver Jewelry Information. 2010. 9 April, 2010 http://www.silverjewelryinfo.com?SJI_about.html.
Bell, C. Jeanenne G.G. Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry. 7th ed. Iola, WI: Krause Publications, 2008.

Art Nouveau Enamel Jewelry

This necklace is made from beads that I took from an old Miram Haskell necklace that had fallen apart. I saw it in an antique store and even though it wasn’t in the greatest shape, I saw potential. So, I deconstructed that, and another necklace to create this design. It’s one of my longest pieces, so it can be worn several different ways. It wraps around the neck up to three times, and can also be worn as a bracelet.
The larger white beads are enameled, a popular technique used by Art Nouveau jewelry designers. Enamel is a glass-like mixture of silica, quartz, borax, feldspar, and lead. Metallic oxides are added to produce different colors and the materials are ground into a fine powder that is then applied to the bead.
Enamel jewelry dates as early as 1800 BCE, where it was discovered in Egyptian tombs. It was made popular by the fact that it could produce a variety of effects in jewelry, and it was durable enough for everyday wear. There are several different enameling techniques, but the most popular is known as cloisonné.
“ For cloisonné, a design is drawn on the article and traced with fine gold wire. This wire forms partitions into which the enamel mixture is poured. Since powdered enamel tends to shrink when fired, several firings are sometimes necessary for each color. After all the colors are fired, the enameling is polished-off even with the top of the wire.” (Bell p. 146).
Enamel jewelry is highly collectible, and can be very expensive. The process to create enamel jewelry requires a lot of time and effort. I have a lot of respect for the artists who use enamel because I know how hard it is to do. Enamel jewelry dates as early as 1800 BCE, where it was discovered in Egyptian tombs. It was also found in burial sites in Northern Greece, where it combined precious and semi-precious stones such as emeralds, amethysts, garnets, and pearls.
The modern use of enamel began around 1920, during the Art Nouveau period. Some of the most famous enamel art was designed by the Evans Case Company, and came in the form of compacts, cigarette cases, and lighters. The company later went on to design some of the most collectible Art Nouveau jewelry in the world.

This necklace is sold.

Reference Sources:
Bell, C. Jeanenne G.G. Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry. 7th ed. Iola, WI: Krause Publications, 2008.

Signed Vintage Jewelry

I love this necklace because it is simple and easy to wear. Like many of my pieces, this one was also inspired by 1920s fashion jewelry. The style is still relevant today and can be worn with just about anything.

When I’m shopping for materials to use in my jewelry, I try to pay attention to signed pieces. The most common form of signing is usually found in engravings on clasps, hooks, and tags. Costume jewelry can be very difficult to identify, so these engravings are important indicators of value.

“If you have two pieces that were obviously made from the same mold, one has a signature on the back but the other does not, it is easy to assume that the signed piece is the most valuable…But it takes a “trained eye” to tell if an ordinary piece by a common company which is signed is more valuable than a striking, well-made piece of unsigned jewelry.” (Bell p. 324).

Most people would be shocked to know how valuable costume jewelry can be. There are so many factors that go into determining the value of old jewelry; so engraved logos are only part of it. Vendome, a superior jewelry manufacturer that started in the 1950s, signs the clasp I used in this necklace. They became very popular during the 1960s, as a subsidiary of Coro. Vendome is known for its high quality craftsmanship and the beautiful designs of its principle designer, Helen Marion. She had rhinestones imported and used only the best faceted crystal beads.

This necklace sells for $185. Please contact me by email to discuss purchasing my work at KellyEFielding@gmail.com

Reference Sources:
Bell, C. Jeanenne G.G. Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry. 7th ed. Iola, WI: Krause Publications, 2008.

Lucite Tie Necklace

This is my absolute favorite necklace design. It was inspired by a trip to Venice with my family, where I researched ideas for my new collection. It is made out of vintage Lucite, from the 1950s and beads I took from an antique lampshade.
Glassmaking in Venice dates as early as the 8th century. In 1291, the government of Venice banned glass furnaces from the central islands, confining them only to Murano. It is thought to have happened due to fear of the fires glass furnaces might cause. The prevailing theory, however, suggests that isolation would ensure secrecy for master glassblowers, and prevent them from sharing information with foreigners. Artisans were practically forced to stay there so they would not have contact with international competitors.
Venice ultimately came became the leading source for fine glass in Europe, and served as a main source of trade. In 1921 Ciacomo Cappellin and Paolo Venini founded their glassworks company, Vetri Soffiati Muranesi Cappellin, Venini & C. Their focus on modern design techniques took fashion trends into consideration and catapulted the glasswork industry into the 20th century.
As the glass industry of Venice continues to evolve, contemporary firms still rely on traditional skills. This means that glassblowers work as artisans rather than artists, a distinction that defines the history of their work. Today, tourists are given the opportunity to go inside these once forbidden factories to watch live glassblowing demonstrations. I was fortunate to experience this first hand and I could hardly believe my eyes when the artisan turned a large globular form of matter into an intricate horse sculpture.
The success of Murano’s glassblowing industry is largely due to its location. Throughout the Renaissance period, travelers would stop to visit the glass workshops on their way to the Holy Land. Italy is home to some of the most important religious relics in the world, so Murano experienced a lot of traffic during this time.
Reference Sources:
Carl I. Gable. Murano Magic: Complete Guide to Venetian Glass, Its History and Artists . Atglen, PA: Schiffer, 2004
Austin, Jamie Sue. “A History of Murano Glass.” LifeinItaly.com. Murano, 8 April 2010. Magazine on-line. Available from http://www.lifeinitaly.com/murano/murano-history-1.asp. Accessed 8 April 2010.

Collectible Cameos

This multi-strand necklace is made from vintage aurora borealis crystals and seed beads from the 1930s. The hand-carved Western Germany cameo in twisted rope style gold-tone frame includes a rhinestone necklace and dates to the 1960s. It is made out of shell.
Lockets and “frame style pendants were popular in the mid 1960s,” but cameos have been around since the 16th century. In 1805 Napoleon I called for “a Prix de Rome,” to promote the art of stone engraving. Subsequently, Pope Leo XII founded the first school dedicated to the art of cameos.
The early cameos were made from stone. In the 16th century, workmen turned to shell to meet the demand for more cameos at less expensive prices. Cameos were set in rings, brooches, earrings, and bracelets. The men wore them in watch fobs, rings, and pins. Stone cameos were cut from onyx, agate, sardonyx, cornelian, coral, lava and jet.” (Bell 23).
This particular cameo has been mounted as a brooch, with a safety catch. This means that it is no older than the early 1900s because safety catches weren’t invented until the 20th century. Cameos are made by carving out background material to create a relief. Typically the ones made from stone are considered more valuable than ones made from shell. It is, however, the craftsmanship that ultimately determines a cameo’s worth.
The type of metal used is another indicator to how old a cameo is. This cameo is certain to have been made after 1840 because it was the year gold electroplating was patented. “Nine-karat gold was legalized in 1854, and a piece in 9k would have to be made after that date” (Bell p. 25).
Cameos were cherished souvenirs from Italy that people considered works of art. By the mid 1800s Italian cameo artists had expanded their shops to reach England, France, and even the U.S. They were commissioned by important social figures to commemorate status and wealth, as written about in Godey’s Lady’s Magazine.
“Peabody the celebrated Cameo Portrait Cutter, 140 Chestnut Street, is kept busily engaged with the portraits of some of our most eminent citizens.” (Bell p. 24).
Cameos are still widely collected today, and include a variety of motifs. Scenic cameos, such as “Rebecca at the Well,” for example, were popular around 1860 because they were harder to make and more expensive. The general imagery includes a “cottage, a bridge, and a girl.” (Bell p. 25).
I personally love cameos more than any other kind of vintage jewelry because they tell a story. They commemorate real people in history, which I find absolutely fascinating because they are so personalized. In today’s world, where everything is mass- produced or made in China, the demand for handcrafted jewelry has dwindled. So please, support your local jewelry artists!
This necklace has sold.

Works Cited: Bell, C. Jeanenne, G.G. Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry. 7th ed. Iola, WI: Krause Publications, 2008.