Collectible Cameos

This multi-strand necklace is made from vintage aurora borealis crystals and seed beads from the 1930s. The hand-carved Western Germany cameo in twisted rope style gold-tone frame includes a rhinestone necklace and dates to the 1960s. It is made out of shell.
Lockets and “frame style pendants were popular in the mid 1960s,” but cameos have been around since the 16th century. In 1805 Napoleon I called for “a Prix de Rome,” to promote the art of stone engraving. Subsequently, Pope Leo XII founded the first school dedicated to the art of cameos.
The early cameos were made from stone. In the 16th century, workmen turned to shell to meet the demand for more cameos at less expensive prices. Cameos were set in rings, brooches, earrings, and bracelets. The men wore them in watch fobs, rings, and pins. Stone cameos were cut from onyx, agate, sardonyx, cornelian, coral, lava and jet.” (Bell 23).
This particular cameo has been mounted as a brooch, with a safety catch. This means that it is no older than the early 1900s because safety catches weren’t invented until the 20th century. Cameos are made by carving out background material to create a relief. Typically the ones made from stone are considered more valuable than ones made from shell. It is, however, the craftsmanship that ultimately determines a cameo’s worth.
The type of metal used is another indicator to how old a cameo is. This cameo is certain to have been made after 1840 because it was the year gold electroplating was patented. “Nine-karat gold was legalized in 1854, and a piece in 9k would have to be made after that date” (Bell p. 25).
Cameos were cherished souvenirs from Italy that people considered works of art. By the mid 1800s Italian cameo artists had expanded their shops to reach England, France, and even the U.S. They were commissioned by important social figures to commemorate status and wealth, as written about in Godey’s Lady’s Magazine.
“Peabody the celebrated Cameo Portrait Cutter, 140 Chestnut Street, is kept busily engaged with the portraits of some of our most eminent citizens.” (Bell p. 24).
Cameos are still widely collected today, and include a variety of motifs. Scenic cameos, such as “Rebecca at the Well,” for example, were popular around 1860 because they were harder to make and more expensive. The general imagery includes a “cottage, a bridge, and a girl.” (Bell p. 25).
I personally love cameos more than any other kind of vintage jewelry because they tell a story. They commemorate real people in history, which I find absolutely fascinating because they are so personalized. In today’s world, where everything is mass- produced or made in China, the demand for handcrafted jewelry has dwindled. So please, support your local jewelry artists!
This necklace has sold.

Works Cited: Bell, C. Jeanenne, G.G. Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry. 7th ed. Iola, WI: Krause Publications, 2008.